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TLE (PLUMBING) 10 4TH QUARTER
  • Reza Villesenda

  • 問題数 29 • 4/8/2024

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    問題一覧

  • 1

    This is a very resilient caulk. It remains flexible even after it's dried, so it's very unlikely to crack. It's also UV and mold resistant. ________________ is somewhat difficult to apply. Some kinds can leave a bad smell while curing. INDOOR/OUTDOOR BATHROOMS, KITCHENS, PLUMBING FIXTURES, OUTDOOR, TILE EDGES.

    SILICONE SEALANT

  • 2

    Are rubber-like caulks. Easy to paint, but it's also available in a variety of colors, mostly designed to match plumbing fixtures. Easy to apply, it works best for filling in gouges and cracks in interior walls, as well as for sealing drywall, wood, and masonry. It's relatively durable and can last a long time. INDOOR USE:Dry wall, wood, filling small gouges in interior wall, door frames.

    ACRYLIC AND VINYL LATEX

  • 3

    A type of polyurethane that works adhesive and a as an sealant. Stronger than silicone, this type of caulk is great anywhere that requires good durability and is especially popular for use around electrical outlets. It is mold and fungus resistant and can even prevent some infestations if you get a pest-resistant type. INDOOR/OUTDOOR:Exterior pipes, electrical outlets, filling cracks in concrete foundations.

    POLYURETHANE SPRAY FOAM

  • 4

    A combination of silicone and either vinyl latex or polyurethane. Hybrid caulk isn't the easiest caulk to apply, but it's not the most difficult either. The silicone also improves the caulk's water resistance, while the latex or polyurethane allows it to be painted. INDOOR/OUTDOOR: WINDOW AND VENTS

    HYBRID-CAULKS

  • 5

    The industrial standard for sealants and adhesives. It's strong, durable, extremely water resistant, and can withstand extreme temperatures. A synthetic rubber, butyl rubber caulk is especially great for applications where the join is likely to expand and contract, such as with metal under a range of temperatures. OUTDOOR: INDUSTRIAL USE, METAL JOINTS, FILLING CRACKS IN WALL, SEALING GUTTERS

    BUTYL RUBBER CAULK

  • 6

    • Ensure the caulk is compatible with the materials you are working with (e.g., wood, metal, concrete, etc.). • Consider whether the caulk is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

    MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY

  • 7

    • Determine the type of application you need (e.g., sealing gaps, filling cracks, waterproofing, etc.). •Choose between acrylic, silicone, polyurethane, or other types based on the application requirements.

    APPLICATION

  • 8

    •Consider the expected lifespan of the caulk and whether it can withstand exposure to elements like sunlight, moisture,or temperature fluctuations.

    DURABILITY

  • 9

    •Evaluate the flexibility of the caulk to accommodate movement without cracking or losing adhesion.

    FLEXIBILITY

  • 10

    •If you plan to paint over the caulk, ensure it is paintable and compatible with the type of paint you intend to use

    PAINTABILITY

  • 11

    •Check the curing time of the caulk to know how long it will take to fully set and be ready for use.

    CURE TIME

  • 12

    •Consider whether the caulk is easy to apply using a caulking gun or by hand and if it requires any special tools for application.

    EASE OF APPLICATION

  • 13

    •Select a caulk color that matches or complements the surface you are sealing for a more aesthetically pleasing finish.

    COLOR OPTIONS

  • 14

    •For areas prone to moisture or humidity, choose a caulk that offers mold and mildew resistance to prevent growth over time.

    MOLD AND MILDEW RESISTANCE

  • 15

    Clean off all the old caulk with a putty knife. Place the sharp end of the putty knife at the base of the old caulk. Then, grab the handle and push the knife forward.

    STEP 1

  • 16

    Wash the surface with alcohol, bleach, and hot water. Wet a cloth with rubbing alcohol and set it on the crack to soften any leftover caulk. Then, wet a rag with warm water and diluted bleach to disinfect the surface. Then, rinse the area with a different rag soaked in hot water Dry the surface with a towel when you're finished since new caulk won't adhere when it's wet.

    STEP 2

  • 17

    Protect the surrounding surface with painter's tape. Stick one long strip above the crack and one right below it. It also acts as insurance in case you make a mistake later on.

    STEP 3

  • 18

    Press the caulk gun's release trigger to pull the rod back. Look for a small metal trigger on the back of the caulking gun where the long metal rod connects. Press the trigger down with your thumb to loosen the rod that runs through the entirety of the frame. With your other hand, pull the rod as far back as you can and hold it.

    STEP 4

  • 19

    Cut the nozzle on a tube of caulk to a 45-degree angle. Use a pair of scissors to cut the nozzle so it's about the size of the crack. If the crack is large, consider cutting the nozzle close to the tube so more caulk comes out.

    STEP 5

  • 20

    Pierce the nozzle with the gun's piercing rod or a nail. Check the front of the caulk gun for a short metal piece that folds out. Stick the metal piece into the end of the caulk's nozzle until you feel it poke through the tube.

    STEP 6

  • 21

    Insert the tube of caulk into the gun. Keep holding the steel rod back, and put the flat end of the caulk tube into the back of the frame. Position the nozzle so it slots into the hole at the front of the gun. Squeeze the large trigger on the gun lightly to make sure the tube is snug and level.

    STEP 7

  • 22

    Pull the trigger and move the gun over a piece of paper to practice. Hold the gun at a 45-degree angle with the nozzle facing downwards. Then, over a piece of paper, press the trigger at the back of the gun while moving the caulking gun steadily in one direction.

    STEP 8

  • 23

    Move the caulking gun across the length of the crack. As the caulk comes out of the nozzle, slowly move the caulking gun along the entire crack. Try to move in a single, steady motion so the caulk fills the crack evenly.

    STEP 9

  • 24

    Smooth the caulk line with your finger or finishing tool. Put on a disposable glove and wet the tip of your finger with some warm water. After that, remove the painters tape.

    STEP 10

  • 25

    a versatile tool used for various tasks in the caulking process. It is commonly used to remove old caulk, smooth out newly applied caulk, and create clean edges along the caulked joints.

    PUTTY KNIFE

  • 26

    a common practice to clean up excess caulk, smooth out the applied caulk, and wipe away any spills or smudges during the caulking process.

    RAG/TOWEL

  • 27

    a tool used for cutting and trimming caulk tubes or cartridges during the caulking process. It helps in creating clean and precise cuts to control the flow of caulk and achieve accurate bead sizes.

    UTILITY KNIFE

  • 28

    a specialized tool used to create a smooth and professional finish when applying caulk or sealant. These tools come in various shapes and sizes, such as caulk finishing tools with different profiles to match different joint shapes, smoothing tools for removing excess caulk, and corner tools for precise corner finishing.

    FINISHING TOOL

  • 29

    a tool designed to apply caulk or sealant with precision and control. It consists of a frame that holds a tube or cartridge of caulk and a trigger mechanism that dispenses the caulk through a nozzle.

    CAULK GUN